12 September 2014

Mandarin Collar; satin trim detail

Applying a satin trim binding around the edge of the collar on my China Blouse proved to be a challenge at first try.  After applying the satin binding, the collar would not lay flat around the curved edge, but instead formed a cup that would not be tamed.  I did clip the seam and I tried to press the collar into submission.  Over-handling made for a disastrous mess.  I was discouraged but not stumped.  Toss it out and start again says me; lucky I had plenty of extra fabric.  Second time around, I used a 1/2" seam to apply the binding to the collar which I then trimmed down to 3/8", same as before.  On my first try, I thought that the bias cut of the binding would be enough to bend and curve around the edges without having to clip the binding itself (wrong!).  This time, before sewing it onto the collar, I clipped the edges of the binding, spacing my clips about every 1/2".  This provided the flexibility needed for that binding to lay flat as it was sewn on.  Finally, I clipped around the curved edges of the collar, clipping ever so carefully so as not to cut into the stitching.   Now the binding folds over the collar edge and will press out nicely.  Remind myself to press gingerly!  I think I'll be able to finish this collar without further headache.

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